Posts Tagged ‘ Water ’

DATELINE: SOUTH BOSTON, MA…

Looking for a different way to trim your energy bill?

New Englanders often focus on the high cost of keeping their homes heated in the winter, but an often overlooked drain on the budget is the cost of heating hot water day in and day out, 365 days a year.

John Wood, founder and CEO of Hub Plumbing & Mechanical in South Boston, MA offers some food for thought if you’re in the market for a new water heater. Notes Wood, “Tankless water heaters may provide a more energy efficient alternative than conventional storage water heaters. Tankless water heaters provide hot water on demand, instantaneously as it is needed. Since tankless water hot water heaters don’t have a storage tank, you can save on energy costs since you’re not constantly keeping an entire tank full of water hot.”

According to the U.S. Department of Energy’s Consumer’s Guide to Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy “For homes that use 41 gallons or less of hot water daily, demand water heaters can be 24%–34% more energy efficient than conventional storage tank water heaters. They can be 8%–14% more energy efficient for homes that use a lot of hot water—around 86 gallons per day. You can achieve even greater energy savings of 27%–50% if you install a demand water heater at each hot water outlet.”

With a tankless water heater, when the hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit where it is then heated – either by a gas burner in a gas fired water heater, or by an electric element in an electric water heater. Energy savings can be maximized on gas powered units by employing a model that utilizes an intermittent ignition device rather than a pilot light.

In large households, where there may be a demand for simultaneous multiple uses of hot water, two or more demand water heaters can be installed. Separate demand water heaters can also be installed to supply appliances that use large quantities of water, such as clothes washers or dishwashers.

Most tankless water heaters have a life expectancy of more than 20 years. Ongoing periodic maintenance and easily replaceable parts can also often extend the life of the unit.

If you had the foresight to buy a tankless water heater in 2007, don’t forget to file for a Residential Energy Credit with your 2007 tax return to be eligible for a tax credit of up to $300. Unfortunately, Congress has not yet enacted an energy credit for tankless water heaters purchased in 2008.

About Hub Plumbing & Mechanical

Hub Plumbing & Mechanical takes the plumbing industry to the next level, utilizing a professional, friendly, customer-centered approach. In addition to protecting your floors with red carpet, Hub Plumbing and Mechanical’s experienced plumbers also cover their work boots with stain-resistant boot covers, wear ID badges for security purposes, and arrive on time and smartly dressed in crisp, clean uniforms.

The company does not charge by the hour, but by the specific project. Hub Plumbing & Mechanical is available 24 hours a day and 7 seven days a week to provide immediate access and peace of mind. Dedicated 2nd and 3rd shift night dispatchers internally handle all calls at Hub Plumbing & Mechanical, not an answering service. The difference between the two enables Hub Plumbing & Mechanical to get real-time info on the customer 24/7 to expedite the call as efficiently as possible.

Hub Plumbing & Mechanical was established in 1999 and now includes a staff of 16 full time employees. This full service plumbing company assists residential and commercial customers with code violations, sewer/drain clogs, garbage disposals, water heaters, water filtration, steam and hot water boilers, thermostats, leaky faucets, tub valves, gas pipes, appliance installation, and outside hose faucets.

Hub Plumbing & Mechanical Inc. is located at 70 Old Colony Avenue in South Boston, MA 02127. For more information about Hub Plumbing & Mechanical call 1-866-HUBPLUMBING (482-7586), email services@hubplumbing.com, or visit www.hubplumbing.com.

Here are a few simple suggestsions you can incorporate into your home and lifestyle, in order to save lots of money and energy right now. Many of these suggested tools are affordable, easy to install, simple to use, and have excellent return on investment potential. Additionally, as many government programs, utility companies and EnergyStar partners offer great incentives and rebates for switching to these products, there hasn’t been a better time to start saving than now!

Energy Efficient Lighting

Replacing your incandescent bulbs with energy-efficient lights such as Compact Fluorescent Light (CFL) bulbs is one of the easiest ways to start saving money. EnergyStar-rated CFLs in particular will save you money because they use 75% less energy and last 6 to 12 times longer than traditional bulbs. In fact, replacing your 5 most frequently used bulbs with EnergyStar-rated CFLs can save you more than $65 a year in energy costs; or $50 per lifespan of a CFL bulb (calculation based on 15-watt CFL, 10,000-hour lifespan, and $0.0898 per kWh).

Better still, did you know that if every US household makes its next lightbulb an Energy Star-rated CFL, we will save more than $800 million on our national energy bill and 8.4 billion kWh of energy (that’s enough to power over 808,000 homes for one year – about the number of homes in Boston, Denver, and San Francisco combined)! In pollution terms, it is like removing the pollution of 1.2 million cars for one year!

Cost:

Approximately $2.50 to $5 per bulb

Payback:

Around 3 to 7.5 months, depending on usage and your electric rate (cost per kWh)

Savings:

Provided ALL household light fixtures are energy-efficient: per year = $117; 10-year savings = $1861*

Low Flow Fixtures

Low flow fixtures such as low flow faucets aerators and low flow showerheads save you water, energy and money by limiting the volume of water that flow through them. As such, by switching from standard showerheads (2.5 gpm) to low flow showerheads (1.0 gpm to 1.5 gpm), you can easily save 7,300 gallons of water (approximately 10% to 60% off your current consumption); in terms of combined water and energy savings, that equals to about $91 for natural gas and $143 for electric (calculation based on 4-person family using 1.5 gpm showerhead, FEMP/DOE data, and average water rate of $4/1000 gallons).

Cost:

Approximately: low flow faucet aerator = $1 to $3.50; low flow showerhead = $10 to $68

Payback:

For aerators, immediate; for showerheads, 2+ months, depending on the gpm

Savings:

Niagara Conservation 1.5 gpm 2915CH low flow showerhead, for example:
• Electric Water Heat = 949 kWh + 7,300 gal H2O = $143 (per year)
• Gas Water Heat = 52 therms + 7,300 gal H2O = $91 (per year)

Smart Power Strips

Electrical devices consume power even when they’re switched off. In fact, this “phantom” use of power makes up 40% of your total home (or 73% of your total office) energy usage. But what’s the alternative to crawling underneath the desk(s) to unplug your things each time? Or, replacing all of your old appliances EnergyStar-rated ones? It’s called the smart power strip.

Also known as the energy saving power strip, this smart little gadget automatically cuts off the power supply from the power source when devices are shut off, while still supplying power to the devices that you always need on (e.g., Internet phone, cable modem, DVR). Best of all, in addition to costing you no more than a standard power strip, a smart power strip will give you surge protection and save you about $15 to $20 per month on your energy bill!

Cost:

Approximately $20 to $100

Payback:

For a smart power strip around $35, as little as 6 weeks

Savings:

According to treehugger.com, per year = $178; 10-year savings = $2834*

Weatherstripping

Weatherstripping literally refers to the narrow strip of material that covers the joint of a door or window to exclude the cold; but often times it actually refers to the act of sealing air leaks, drafts, dust and moisture from under and around doors, windows, and electrical outlets on exterior walls as well as air ducts and chimneys. And while it takes some time for you to caulk and seal your entire home, the total effects in terms of money savings are dramatic and long-lasting.

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, home weatherization may cost $1000 but will potentially save $300 to $500 per year. That amount is equal to 20% of your total heating & cooling bill or 10% of your total energy bill (based on a 3-bedroom house with insulation in walls, attic, among other areas and spaces). As a matter of fact, if you insulate your home on or before 12/31/2010, you can earn a tax credit up to $1,500!

Cost:

Approximately: door = $2.50 to $15; window = $2 to $23; electrical outlet = $0.10 to $5; air duct done yourself = $10 to $20; air duct done professionally = $300 to $1000; chimney = $45

Payback:

About 2 to 3 years, depending on how well you weatherstrip all of your doors, windows, electrical outlets, air ducts, chimneys and any other sources for drafts or unwanted air seepage

Savings:

$300 to $500 per year, provided your entire home is properly caulked and sealed; cannot estimate savings from individual sealing fixes (epa.gov)

Motion Sensors

Motion sensors (Motion Sensing Wall Switches or Occupancy Sensors) are ideal for controlling lights that have unpredictable usage and could be accidentally left on for prolonged periods of time. In addition to the typical commercial applications, they can be used in home entryways, bathrooms, closets, basements, attics, garage and porches to save money. Motion sensors are convenient because they eliminate the need for anyone to have to remember to turn anything off as they leave a room or space.

In a commercial setting, motions sensors can save you 13% to 90%, depending on the type of room or area of installation. In a residential setting, American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy estimates lighting costs adds up to about 10% of total household energy costs (annual average); that means, for example, at $0.0898 per kWh, a $50 motion sensor will pay for itself by saving around 560 kWh over 9 months (based on bulbs that use 2 kWh per day).

Cost:

Approximately $50 to $100; most porch lights have built-in sensors

Payback:

6 months to 1 year, depending on your electricity rate

Savings:

Residential: Up to 10% of your entire monthly energy bill Commercial: 13% to 90%

Programmable Thermostats

High-tech programmable thermostats give you the flexibility to preset temperatures based on criteria such as day of week, time of day, and occupancy. That means, you can set a different temperature for a particular day or range of days; any particular time of day; or an occupied or unoccupied space. Programmable thermostats are convenient because you don’t have to remember to adjust or turn off anything (e.g., before going to bed at night or on a long vacation), once the temperature settings are locked in. Best of all, some utility companies offer free installation (e.g., in exchange for letting them scale back your air conditioner use in the on hot summer days) and/or rebates, so check with them for great incentives to get started today.

Cost:

Approximately $40 to $125

Payback:

About one year, assuming thermostat controls heat and air conditioning, and depending on where you live (climate and electricity rate) and personal preference (average set temperature during the hottest and coldest months)

Savings:

Depending on your electricity rate and climate (per year):
• Low kWh but need lots of heat (e.g., Fargo, ND) = $115
• High kWh and need lots of cooling (e.g., Las Vegas, NV) = $75

Drain Water Heat Recovery System

Did you know that 90% of the energy used to heat water goes down the drain? The good news: by installing a Drain Water Heat Recovery system in your home, you can recycle 60% of the energy that would otherwise be wasted, and reduce your water heating bills by 25% to 40% without altering your lifestyle. A non-storage DWHR is basically a copper heat exchanger that replaces part of your existing vertical shower drainage pipe; as you shower, the heat from the outgoing drain water preheats the freshwater supply that feeds into your water heater, thus saving you water heating bills. Additionally, DWHR systems can be applied to industrial or commercial uses to preheat or precool large quantity of water or other liquids. Better still, some utility companies   offer rebates for those who install, so check with your local company to see if they are offering any incentives.

Cost:

Approximately $625 to $995, plus $100 for professional installation (optional)

Payback:

About 2 to 5 years at a rate of return of 15% to 50% per year — more specifically, it’s closer to 2 years, if you use electricity to heat water; and it’s closer to 5 years, if you use natural gas to heat water

Savings:

If your natural gas rate is fairly high  , then around $120 per year

* Including annual 10% fuel inflation

Waterproof line voltage thermostat precisely and automatically controls your heating, cooling or ventilation systems from 30deg to 110deg F. 16 full load Amps. 120V AC unit is UL listed. Includes 8ft. cord. U.S.A.

(more…)

Your water heater is probably one of the single most expensive components of your plumbing system. It costs a lot of money to buy it and it costs more money to operate it. If your water heater isn’t working properly it can make your life miserable. Unless you really like cold showers it is a big deal when your water heater has problems.

When To Call A Plumber

This is a good time to talk a little about when it is appropriate for you to fix things yourself and when you should probably go ahead and call a plumber. Water heater problems are a good example of when this choice is important.

If you water heater itself is leaking, as opposed to the piping connected to it leaking, this probably means that it needs to be replaced. It is virtually impossible to repair a leaking hot water heater. If you can’t confidently say you know how to install a water heater you really need to use caution.

A water heater replacement raises a lot of safety concerns and there are some fairly technical skills needed to do the job right. It is usually better to call a licensed plumber if yours needs replacing. Licensed plumbers know how to install a gas water heater without creating a potentially dangerous situation (and how to install electric water heater without getting electrocuted in the process).

You Can Do It!

On the other hand, if you have a non-leaking water heater and no hot water, you can often correct that yourself without calling a plumber. You don’t need any really technical skills to learn to troubleshoot water heaters, just a little common sense and patience.

The first good news is that, although the trend is toward more economical water heaters, the basic operation and controls haven’t changed much over the years. So some basic knowledge will allow you to troubleshoot water heaters of almost any age or manufacturer.

Gas or Electric?

There are two main kinds of storage water heaters (we won’t get into tankless models here): gas and electric. This indicates what sort of energy source is used to heat the water.

Gas Water Heaters

Gas water heaters use natural gas (and sometimes LP) to fuel a burner which in turn heats the water sort of like a pot on the stove. They have only a few components that control whether or not you have hot water.

The first thing to check if you have a gas water heater and no hot water is whether or not you have gas. I know it my sound silly, but I have gone to many homes only to find that the gas had been turned off for one reason or another. If you have a gas stove see if it works. If not check your meter to make sure it’s on.

If you have gas, the next step is to check your pilot light and, if it’s out, try to light it. The lighting instructions are usually right on the water heater. If your gas has been off it may take a while for the air to bleed out and the gas to get to the pilot, so be patient.

The Thermocouple

If your pilot won’t light, or won’t stay lit, the thermocouple may be the problem. This looks like a copper wire coming from the control box on front of the water heater and going down to where the pilot light should be. It has an enlarged tip at the pilot end.

The thermocouple is positioned with it’s enlarged end in the flame of the pilot. This heat from the pilot flame causes a tiny electrical signal to be sent to the control valve, telling the control valve that there is a flame present so it’s OK to let the gas through to the main burner when the thermostat calls for heat. . You can change a thermocouple on most water heaters with only a small adjustable wrench. Just make sure that the bulb end is securely positioned in the pilot flame. You can get a new thermocouple at most hardware stores for under $20. This will usually correct a pilot light problem.

On more recent water heaters, the combustion chamber may be sealed. If you have one of these there will usually be a small inspection window you can look through to check the pilot. You may need to call the manufacturer to get a complete pilot assembly and new cover seal in order to repair these models, but the procedure is still pretty much the same once you get the parts. These parts are usually covered by the manufacturers warranty.

The Gas Control Valve

If you are sure you have gas, and replacing the thermocouple doesn’t fix the problem, the gas control valve is about the only thing left to check. This is a fairly major repair so if you aren’t very comfortable working with gas connections you may want to call a licensed plumber for this.

Electric Water Heaters

Electric water heaters use, you guessed it- electricity, to heat the water. If your electric water heater isn’t working the first thing to do is check your breaker or fuse box. Many electric water heaters also have a separate disconnect box at the water heater, check this too.

If you are sure you have power, the problem is either your heating elements or thermostats. Most electric water heaters have two of each, upper and lower. In order to check or replace a water heater element you will have to turn off the breaker serving the water heater circuit and remove the access cover on the water heater. At this point you might get lucky and find the easiest way to fix an electric water heater.

The Reset Button

Many thermostats have a reset button which can sometimes be pushed to reset the circuit and get the water heater working again. To find it you may have to carefully remove any insulation covering the thermostat. If the reset button has been tripped you should be able to hear and feel a definite click when you push it. If you think it was tripped, put everything back together, turn the power on and check for hot water in about an hour.

If the thermostat can’t be reset you will need a voltage meter or continuity tester before going any further. There’s not room in one article to cover electrical diagnostics but you can perform a simple continuity check on the elements to make sure they make a complete circuit.

The Heating Elements

First, make sure the power is off to the water heater! Then locate the heating elements. The elements will have two wires connected to each one and will either have a big hex nut where they screw into the tank or will be fastened to the tank with a bracket and usually 4 bolts. After confirming that the power is indeed off to the water heater, remove the 2 wires from the element and check for continuity. If there is not an intact circuit between the two terminals on the element, it is bad.

If one or both of the elements is bad it is probably a good idea to just replace them both. You will need to shut off the water and drain the water heater to replace the elements. If they are the hex nut style, you may need a special socket. You can usually find these tools where you buy the elements. Make sure the water heater is completely full and all air bled from the system before turning the power back on or you will ruin the new elements by “dry firing” them.

The Thermostats

If the elements are OK and don’t need to be replaced, it is probably the thermostat(s). It is a good idea to replace both thermostats if there are two, they are fairly inexpensive. Just remove the wires, connect the new one the same as the old one, put the access plate back on and turn the power back on. You should have hot water in about an hour.

Know Your Limitations!

Learning how to troubleshoot water heaters can be fairly simple but you do need to understand and be comfortable working with gas and electricity. Either one can literally kill you if you fail to observe the proper safety precautions. If you aren’t qualified or aren’t sure about something it is better to be safe than sorry.

This article is for information purposes only and in no way should be interpreted as an encouragement to attempt any repairs for which you are not qualified.

Copyright 2008 Bryan Stevens

Product Description
215486… More >>

Bunn-O-Matic Adjustable Mechanical Thermostat Hot Water Machine, 5 gal, 120 V

Here are a few simple suggestsions you can incorporate into your home and lifestyle, in order to save lots of money and energy right now. Many of these suggested tools are affordable, easy to install, simple to use, and have excellent return on investment potential. Additionally, as many government programs, utility companies and EnergyStar partners offer great incentives and rebates for switching to these products, there hasn’t been a better time to start saving than now!

Energy Efficient Lighting

Replacing your incandescent bulbs with energy-efficient lights such as Compact Fluorescent Light (CFL) bulbs is one of the easiest ways to start saving money. EnergyStar-rated CFLs in particular will save you money because they use 75% less energy and last 6 to 12 times longer than traditional bulbs. In fact, replacing your 5 most frequently used bulbs with EnergyStar-rated CFLs can save you more than $65 a year in energy costs; or $50 per lifespan of a CFL bulb (calculation based on 15-watt CFL, 10,000-hour lifespan, and $0.0898 per kWh).

Better still, did you know that if every US household makes its next lightbulb an Energy Star-rated CFL, we will save more than $800 million on our national energy bill and 8.4 billion kWh of energy (that’s enough to power over 808,000 homes for one year – about the number of homes in Boston, Denver, and San Francisco combined)! In pollution terms, it is like removing the pollution of 1.2 million cars for one year!

Cost:

Approximately $2.50 to $5 per bulb

Payback:

Around 3 to 7.5 months, depending on usage and your electric rate (cost per kWh)

Savings:

Provided ALL household light fixtures are energy-efficient: per year = $117; 10-year savings = $1861*

Low Flow Fixtures

Low flow fixtures such as low flow faucets aerators and low flow showerheads save you water, energy and money by limiting the volume of water that flow through them. As such, by switching from standard showerheads (2.5 gpm) to low flow showerheads (1.0 gpm to 1.5 gpm), you can easily save 7,300 gallons of water (approximately 10% to 60% off your current consumption); in terms of combined water and energy savings, that equals to about $91 for natural gas and $143 for electric (calculation based on 4-person family using 1.5 gpm showerhead, FEMP/DOE data, and average water rate of $4/1000 gallons).

Cost:

Approximately: low flow faucet aerator = $1 to $3.50; low flow showerhead = $10 to $68

Payback:

For aerators, immediate; for showerheads, 2+ months, depending on the gpm

Savings:

Niagara Conservation 1.5 gpm 2915CH low flow showerhead, for example:
• Electric Water Heat = 949 kWh + 7,300 gal H2O = $143 (per year)
• Gas Water Heat = 52 therms + 7,300 gal H2O = $91 (per year)

Smart Power Strips

Electrical devices consume power even when they’re switched off. In fact, this “phantom” use of power makes up 40% of your total home (or 73% of your total office) energy usage. But what’s the alternative to crawling underneath the desk(s) to unplug your things each time? Or, replacing all of your old appliances EnergyStar-rated ones? It’s called the smart power strip.

Also known as the energy saving power strip, this smart little gadget automatically cuts off the power supply from the power source when devices are shut off, while still supplying power to the devices that you always need on (e.g., Internet phone, cable modem, DVR). Best of all, in addition to costing you no more than a standard power strip, a smart power strip will give you surge protection and save you about $15 to $20 per month on your energy bill!

Cost:

Approximately $20 to $100

Payback:

For a smart power strip around $35, as little as 6 weeks

Savings:

According to treehugger.com, per year = $178; 10-year savings = $2834*

Weatherstripping

Weatherstripping literally refers to the narrow strip of material that covers the joint of a door or window to exclude the cold; but often times it actually refers to the act of sealing air leaks, drafts, dust and moisture from under and around doors, windows, and electrical outlets on exterior walls as well as air ducts and chimneys. And while it takes some time for you to caulk and seal your entire home, the total effects in terms of money savings are dramatic and long-lasting.

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, home weatherization may cost $1000 but will potentially save $300 to $500 per year. That amount is equal to 20% of your total heating & cooling bill or 10% of your total energy bill (based on a 3-bedroom house with insulation in walls, attic, among other areas and spaces). As a matter of fact, if you insulate your home on or before 12/31/2010, you can earn a tax credit up to $1,500!

Cost:

Approximately: door = $2.50 to $15; window = $2 to $23; electrical outlet = $0.10 to $5; air duct done yourself = $10 to $20; air duct done professionally = $300 to $1000; chimney = $45

Payback:

About 2 to 3 years, depending on how well you weatherstrip all of your doors, windows, electrical outlets, air ducts, chimneys and any other sources for drafts or unwanted air seepage

Savings:

$300 to $500 per year, provided your entire home is properly caulked and sealed; cannot estimate savings from individual sealing fixes (epa.gov)

Motion Sensors

Motion sensors (Motion Sensing Wall Switches or Occupancy Sensors) are ideal for controlling lights that have unpredictable usage and could be accidentally left on for prolonged periods of time. In addition to the typical commercial applications, they can be used in home entryways, bathrooms, closets, basements, attics, garage and porches to save money. Motion sensors are convenient because they eliminate the need for anyone to have to remember to turn anything off as they leave a room or space.

In a commercial setting, motions sensors can save you 13% to 90%, depending on the type of room or area of installation. In a residential setting, American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy estimates lighting costs adds up to about 10% of total household energy costs (annual average); that means, for example, at $0.0898 per kWh, a $50 motion sensor will pay for itself by saving around 560 kWh over 9 months (based on bulbs that use 2 kWh per day).

Cost:

Approximately $50 to $100; most porch lights have built-in sensors

Payback:

6 months to 1 year, depending on your electricity rate

Savings:

Residential: Up to 10% of your entire monthly energy bill Commercial: 13% to 90%

Programmable Thermostats

High-tech programmable thermostats give you the flexibility to preset temperatures based on criteria such as day of week, time of day, and occupancy. That means, you can set a different temperature for a particular day or range of days; any particular time of day; or an occupied or unoccupied space. Programmable thermostats are convenient because you don’t have to remember to adjust or turn off anything (e.g., before going to bed at night or on a long vacation), once the temperature settings are locked in. Best of all, some utility companies offer free installation (e.g., in exchange for letting them scale back your air conditioner use in the on hot summer days) and/or rebates, so check with them for great incentives to get started today.

Cost:

Approximately $40 to $125

Payback:

About one year, assuming thermostat controls heat and air conditioning, and depending on where you live (climate and electricity rate) and personal preference (average set temperature during the hottest and coldest months)

Savings:

Depending on your electricity rate and climate (per year):
• Low kWh but need lots of heat (e.g., Fargo, ND) = $115
• High kWh and need lots of cooling (e.g., Las Vegas, NV) = $75

Drain Water Heat Recovery System

Did you know that 90% of the energy used to heat water goes down the drain? The good news: by installing a Drain Water Heat Recovery system in your home, you can recycle 60% of the energy that would otherwise be wasted, and reduce your water heating bills by 25% to 40% without altering your lifestyle. A non-storage DWHR is basically a copper heat exchanger that replaces part of your existing vertical shower drainage pipe; as you shower, the heat from the outgoing drain water preheats the freshwater supply that feeds into your water heater, thus saving you water heating bills. Additionally, DWHR systems can be applied to industrial or commercial uses to preheat or precool large quantity of water or other liquids. Better still, some utility companies   offer rebates for those who install, so check with your local company to see if they are offering any incentives.

Cost:

Approximately $625 to $995, plus $100 for professional installation (optional)

Payback:

About 2 to 5 years at a rate of return of 15% to 50% per year — more specifically, it’s closer to 2 years, if you use electricity to heat water; and it’s closer to 5 years, if you use natural gas to heat water

Savings:

If your natural gas rate is fairly high  , then around $120 per year

* Including annual 10% fuel inflation